Higashi Honganji in France

By Rev. Ken Yamada

In a French village near the Swiss border, a small group met to discuss Buddhism and Shinran Shonin. This month, Rev. Ryoko Osa from Berkeley Higashi Honganji in California, and I travelled there to help and support them.

The gathering represented a budding French-speaking sangha, led by Greg Thomas, who has “tokudo” ordination from Higashi Honganji. He actively writes and talks about Jōdo Shinshū and Buddhism on the Internet, Youtube, and on a live Twitch.tv forum.

Consequently, people all around France are becoming interested in Jōdo Shinshū. A few have travelled great distances to participate in retreats with Greg and Higashi Honganji ministers from Shinshu Center of America, which helps since English serves as a common language for everyone.

Salins-les-Bains, where Greg and wife Sophie live, is a picturesque village with narrow streets nestled among forested hills. For centuries, the town produced salt drawn from a spring deep underground, considered so valuable the king built fortresses on nearby hilltops to guard the “white gold.” Production stopped decades ago, decimating the local economy. Today the village’s charm masks the downturn, apparent by the area’s many empty houses and churches.

Salins-les-Bains, France

Drawn by the village’s need for residents and businesses, Greg and Sophie acquired a large affordable home, enabling them to convert part into an Airbnb, their living quarters above. Sophie runs a booming online Japanese language school for French speakers, boosted by the popularity of Japanese culture. The school is a perfect counterpart to Greg’s activities, because students are introduced to Buddhism through phrases such as “itadakimasu” (I gratefully receive this food), which reflect Buddhist teachings.

Hilltop fortress, Salins-les-Bains, France

Our retreat was attended by two participants, a man from the country’s north, and a woman from the south. His interest sprang from the death of a loved one, while she previously wasn’t religious, but suddenly felt a need to “believe in something.”

Friday evening began with opening service followed by self-introductions and discussion. Greg graciously prepared the weekend’s meals entirely vegan. I was reminded when I attended a three-day Buddhist conference in Taiwan, where all meals were vegan, and by the end, I felt healthy and clear headed. I looked forward to the same feeling.

Participants stayed in the Airbnb, sharing living quarters, which added to the retreat atmosphere. Saturday morning began with 8 a.m. service. Greg lectured in French on the Buddhist parable “White Path and River of Fire and Water,” a metaphorical story written by Chinese Pure Land master Shandao in the 7th Century. It tells the story of a person, who chased by demons, becomes trapped by a raging river, but finds a way across to the Pure Land, beckoned by Amida Buddha. The story reflects our psychological state when confronting suffering.

Greg’s “River of Fire and Water” scroll.

The afternoon session consisted of a public lecture held on Zoom, also attended by a dozen people online. Greg, wearing his minister robes, began by explaining why he didn’t conform to the image of a stereotypical Buddhist priest. Speaking in French, he explained different types of Buddhism, for example, the differences between Theravāda (monastic) Buddhism and Mahayana Buddhism, then finally about the liberal and open minded ways of Jōdo Shinshū.

Many French people are not familiar with Buddhism, which is a relatively new religion in a country identifying mostly as Catholic and Christian. The country’s Buddhist organizations tend to represent Tibetan and Zen traditions. Questions from online participants asked about the different Buddhist traditions, how to choose between them, and how to start learning. Greg encouraged them to keep an open mind when seeking a sangha for oneself.

Afterward, we practiced chanting “Shōshinge,” which is recited universally at Jōdo Shinshū services whatever the local language. Next year in August for example, Higashi Honganji will hold an international Dōbō gathering in Brazil, where people from Japan, the United States, and Brazil, will come together in fellowship. Speakers of Japanese, English, and Portuguese will chant Shōshinge, making it a universal language connecting us as one sangha. Perhaps French people will soon join us.

On the final day, we held a Buddhist name ceremony (Japanese: Kikyoshiki). Rev. Osa served as the main officiant, with Greg and I assisting. It was perhaps the first time a woman received her Buddhist name from Higashi Honganji in France, and the first time the officiant was a female minister (Rev. Osa). Both recipients seemed to be truly moved by the ceremony.

This year’s retreat follows the first retreat held last year, attended by a French native and an Irish transplant to France.

Sophie leads us on a walk through Salina-les-Bains.

This year’s retreat also felt historic because I felt we were witnessing Jōdo Shinshū’s beginnings in France, particularly for our Higashi Honganji denomination. Greg busily produces content, including online writings, video talks and live feeds, as well as translations into French (Nishi Honganji’s Rev. Jérôme Ducor in Switzerland already has produced many French translations). Perhaps someday, the pictures we took will appear in a history book.

In September, Greg and Victor Ogundipe from Berkeley will travel to our mother temple in Kyoto to receive “kyoshi” ordination to become full-fledged ministers. For Greg, it’s another step toward committing to the Nenbutsu path. And France finally will have its first homegrown Higashi Honganji minister.

 

-Rev. Yamada is editor at Higashi Honganji’s Shinshu Center of America